4/11/2023 0 Comments Appriority similarI don't know about your particular camera, but I know from tinkering with my old Pentaxes that the mirror movement and the shutter movements are two different assemblies it is possible in some SLR camera designs for the camera to sound normal, but not have the shutter move. I can't recall how the film frame numbers get exposed? Where does that light come from and which film edge marks do you mean? I would frankly be glad if it were a processing error because I regret losing the pictures, but it would be better than undefined camera problem. I believe there are frame numbers on the film. Michael, I need to check for the film edge marks. I will say that 2 negatives have an unidentifiable tiny black dot on the clear frames. I am certain the interior shots were f1.4 and f2 (notes are at home), and I would have had to have the shutter at 1/500 or 1/1000 to get nothing if it was in manual. Mauro, I typically shoot this camera in aperture priority, and because the last half came out fine, and I don't recall having to change to ap priority later, and I do recall and almost always check what shutter I'm going to get with my selected aperture-in fact I just remembered that I recorded the approximate shutters on each of the lost shots when I took them, and they were typically f2 at 1/125 or 1/60 with 400 ISO film with very nearby interior lamp light and some day light through windows, I doubt that was the problem. What is the liklihood that the shutter would have been not opening even though everything else was working, and then the shutter began working fine for the last half? Thoughts? Thanks. You just don't have meter so no Ap priority. Without batteries the FM3a operates at all shutter speeds in manual mode. The FM3a has a hybrid shutter, and I wondered if the shutter could have been not opening because the battery was not contacting, so I just took out the battery and fired the camera in ap priority, but in that situation the mirror locks up and doesn't return and that is not what happened. The film was advancing properly because shot 21 was what it was supposed to be. The mirror would black out and return in what seemed the appropriate time, which was a little more apparent on the slower exposures. All were taken in aperture priority, and I would glance over in the viewfinder to make sure the exposure was about what I expected, and it always was, so the meter was working. I had written down what the shots were when I took them. I took in a roll for processing recently, and the negatives came back clear for shots 1 to 20 and then fine for the rest of the 36 exposure roll. But one of my main cameras is a Nikon FM3a, and I've never had a problem. Its happened a few times over the last 25 years. I've failed to get the film leader on and not exposed any pictures. I've opened the back and exposed a roll before. Like many of us, I have a drawer full of cameras, some of them older and tricky to load.
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